As my feet squelch into the muddy ground at the annual Rainforest World Music Festival (RWMF), the tropical heavens dramatically open. As they say, the show must go on. Just steps away, the legendary Matthew Ngau Jau plucks the sapè—a traditional string instrument originating in Borneo—with the Borneo Collective band.

As the festival was emerging in 1998, Matthew was an up-and-coming Sapè player training under a master: Uchau Bilong, one of the last Sapè players from the state of Sarawak, located in the Malaysian part of Borneo. Preserving the musical traditions of the 34 ethnic tribes of Sarawak is in fact the very reason why the festival was established. 

For the second year in a row, I’m under the spell of this traditional music as musicians perform in one of the oldest rainforests in the world. In this 27th year of the RWMF, the theme is aptly “Evolution,” as younger generations of musicians are putting a modern spin on ancient songlines and old world instruments like the sapè.

Beyond the Sarawak Cultural Village where the fest is held, the promise of adventure abounds. Rising steeply from the South China Sea, Mount Santubong teems with life, like the roaming long-tail macaque monkeys. This iconic mountain challenges even the most accomplished hikers. Nearby, Bako National Park offers more accessible trails and boats to reach its sandy beaches, lookouts, and the peculiar proboscis monkey, native to Borneo. Orangutan encounters await at the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, about an hour from the festival grounds.

While this isn’t my first time at RWMF, I’m a novice compared to some who have been returning for years. Others are also drawn to make the RWMF a tradition. Music journalist Chris Lambie of Rhythms Music Magazine and World Music Central shares, “When I first came in 2009, I was introduced to the sapè, a boat-shaped lute played by the local tribes of Sarawak. There are other versions, but the Sarawak Sapè has an exceptional sound. This hypnotic string instrument gets under my skin and is evocative of the area.”

This year, over 26,000 festival-goers have traveled to Borneo for the experience. The eclectic line-up attracts artists from across the globe, ranging from reggae to ethnic instruments tapping into electronic beats. Headliner Kitaro—an electronic instrumentalist—captivated the audience for two hours on opening night, and the energy never waned for the entire three days and nights following. 

Beyond main stage acts, the fest features mini pocket concerts, sessions in Malaysian longhouses, and cultural workshops, like sapè lessons. Ring Ladies of the Kampung Semban tribe from the nearby Banjaran Bungo mountain range danced while donning copper rings on their forearms and calves.

What makes this festival so unique is the blend of local and world music. Every year is different, and I love stumbling across the mix of tradition with modern techniques, from a Pakistani qawwali singer to the didgeridoo against the backdrop of Balinese drums to a Cuban band that salsa-ed onto the stage just as the skies opened once again.

At the 2023 RWMF, the Gipsy Kings from France played alongside a folk ensemble from Iran, a Maldivian rock band and an acrobatic Tanzanian act. Where else can you find a blend of musical acts as global and diverse as this? 

With the rhythm of the rainforest still coursing through my veins, I’m already planning to return to the RWMF next year—if you are too, mark your calendar for June 20-22, 2025 and maybe I’ll see you there.  

Your Guide To The Rainforest World Music Festival

The Festival’s location

The RWMF is staged at the Sarawak Cultural Village on the spectacular Damai Peninsula, between Mount Santubong and the South China Sea. Although you’re only an hour from Sarawak’s capital of Kuching, civilization feels distant when you’re in the rainforest.

Sarawak is separate from Peninsular Malaysia and is part of Borneo in Malaysia, bordering Sabah, which is also part of Malaysia and Kalimantan in Indonesia. 

About two-thirds of the state is natural rainforest and home to one of the last remaining orangutan communities living in the wild.

How to get to Sarawak

Several airlines fly into Kuching International Airport via Kuala Lumpur, with Malaysia Airlines partnering with several airlines flying into the US, Australia, the Middle East and Europe.
 

Where to stay

Damai Beach Resort and the luxurious Cove 55 are nearby and offer shuttles to the festival. There are also shuttle buses running to Kuching, where you’ll find various accommodation options.

 

How to prepare

As the festival name suggests, rain is quite likely and things might get sweaty and muddy. So brace yourself for tropical storms and come armed with rainwear, umbrellas, and functional footwear, especially since you’ll be standing and dancing for hours in the open. 
Whether it rains or not, it's always humid and very hot during the day, so protect yourself from the sun by covering up, wearing sunscreen, and staying dehydrated.

Dedication to sustainability

Sustainability is at the forefront of the RWMF, and not only when it comes to preserving musical tradition. Single-use plastic bottles are banned, but plenty of water stations can replenish your water bottle. Recycling stations are dotted around the festival, and free shuttle buses between the festival, hotels, and the city of Kuching help reduce carbon emissions and traffic.
 

Based in Perth, Western Australia, Carmen Jenner has written for numerous magazines, newspapers, blogs, and books. She has worked on several books, including Australia’s Extra.Ordinary West, a coffee table book showcasing Western Australia. Carmen also runs the Fluffy Towel Travel blog, for travelers who love fluffy towels as much as their adventures.